Why foreigners love retiring in Lake Atitlan Guatemala

This report explains why foreigners love retiring in Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.

I left the USA in 2007 and I have lived in and traveled to 65 countries.

We just completed 6 months in Quintana Roo Mexico, in the Riviera Maya. It was time to head south into one of my favorite countries in Central America, Guatemala. I had last been in Guatemala in 2012.

Back in 2012, I had heard about beautiful Lake Atitlan but had elected to visit only Antigua, Semuc Champey, Flores, and Tikal.  Since we were in the middle of a pandemic on this visit, I decide to forgo bus travel on this trip and focus only on locations that I thought would be best for my followers to retire cheap in paradise.

Those two places are Lake Atitlan and Antigua. But first I want to share how we got to Lake Atitlan so you know how to get there for your exploratory visit.  

How we got to Lake Atitlan

We flew from Cancun, Mexico to Guatemala City, Guatemala during the pandemic, so we had to show a negative antigen test for coronavirus before they let us board the airplane. The flight with Volaris cost us $276.89 USD for the two of us.

When we landed in Guatemala City, there was no ATM machine and no SIM card sellers in the arrivals area of the airport. We were worried. That meant that we had no Internet to order an Uber Taxi and no local money to pay a taxi driver. Probably because the airport had been closed for the better part of a year so those services were not necessary.

Luckily, Qiang had the idea to go upstairs and check departures. We found both an ATM machine and a Claro SIM card seller in departures. That would never have happened before the pandemic. The SIM card cost 150 Q ($20 USD) for 30 days and included about 7 Gigabytes of Internet data and a local telephone number. Once you have the SIM card you can recharge the next 30 days for only 70 Q ($9). The ATM machine let me pull out local money 2000 Q ($259 USD), so I didn’t have to exchange any dollars for local money.

I had never spent any time in Guatemala City, but Qiang wanted to spend the night there before we headed to Lake Atitlan.

Qiang had booked an Airbnb for just one night. The Airbnb was listed for $22 USD for one night but after paying all the fees it cost us $33.09 USD total.

We used our smartphone to order an Uber from the airport to our Airbnb for 25 Q ($3.24 USD).

By that time we were hungry so we shared a falafel at this restaurant in the building on the first floor below our condo for 35Q ($4.54) plus a 10% tip. It included a drink and the food was good. After lunch, we got an Uber Taxi 18Q ($2.33) to the grocery store and purchased some food supplies 339Q ($43.95) we thought might be cheaper since the lake is relatively remote and then returned by Uber 24 Q ($3.11).

That evening we walked to a funky fun walking area near our condo and had a beautiful dinner at a Peruvian restaurant. The food was spectacular as you might expect because it was very expensive, two entrees, 178 Q ($23 USD). Guatemala City is a big city so we were getting gouged everywhere we turned.

The next morning, after egg McMuffins meals for two, including coffee and hashbrowns 72 Q ($9.33), we took Uber to the town of Panajachel (‘Pana’) at Lake Atitlan 640.55 Q ($82.99). Did you know McDonald’s is considered an expensive foreign meal in some parts of the world?

The chicken bus to Lake Atitlan is about $6 USD per person, but we are keeping a lower profile during the pandemic.

The Uber driver took us all the way to the dock in Pana where we immediately boarded a public water taxi 35 Q ($4.53) per person to San Pedro Village. Normally it would be a little cheaper but they were charging us extra for the 20kg of luggage we each had in addition to our backpacks.

Every village around Lake Atitlan has a public dock where the public taxis drop you. We started our exploration of Lake Atitlan in San Pedro Village.

San Pedro-The Party Village of Lake Atitlan

Our Airbnb landlord met us at the public dock in San Pedro Village and walked us about 200 meters to our accommodations.

We stayed there three nights at $25 USD per night, but the total including Airbnb fee was $85.59 including all utilities and Internet. While we were in San Pedro for 3 nights we walked all around the village and took day tours to two of the nearby villages San Juan and Santiago. I will discuss San Pedro first.

Things to See and Do in San Pedro Village

San Pedro Village is home for the Tz’utujill people for centuries, one of the 21 Maya ethnic groups of original people. About 100,000 Tz’utujill people live around Lake Atitlan. More recently, the lake has become better known by visitors from all over the world. Local ex-pats describe San Pedro as a drinking and partying village which seems to play out mainly in the restaurants and bars along the lakefront every night of the week. Each of the villages has a different character which I will discuss separately as we go.

Visitors enjoy hiking the San Pedro Volcano and Mayan Face, studying Spanish, volunteering, learning local arts and crafts, and partying in the bars and restaurants along the lakefront. If just a few of you decide to hike the volcano, make sure to bring along a local guide. There have been stories of tourists having their cameras and other valuable possessions taken away from them on the isolated paths.

Just a few hours walking around San Pedro village will give you a survey of not only what the visitors are up to but also the daily lives of the Tz’utujill people. It is best if you take this walk and see it with your own eyes, but here is where I recommend you visit while in San Pedro Village.

Interactive Google Map Walking Tour of San Pedro Village

Click the above Google Map or ==>this link<== on your smartphone to get started on your walking tour of San Pedro Village, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala.

 

Main Public Dock: This is the dock where your public taxi will arrive. If you click and walk this interactive Google Map, it will take you to each destination I am suggesting.

Catholic Church: The Catholic Church of San Pedro was built in about 1902. The garden out front is beautiful and there are often locals playing traditional Mayan music in the garden. The Mayan population is both Protestant and Catholic but many also practice ancient Mayan traditions and rituals alongside their more recent faiths. Mayans believe both good and bad spirits inhabit the earth.

Central Market: On you walk from the Catholic Church to the next stop on the map, Google maps will walk you by the largest locals food market in San Pedro. You will see fruits and vegetables and meats, along with some arts and crafts sellers.

Mini-Super Andy: This market has many surprise foods from various parts of the world that you might not expect to find in a village of this size.

Public Dock to Santiago: I have added the public dock where you catch the public water taxi to Santiago Village so you will know where to go if you decide to visit Santiago Village.

Tzunun’ Ya’: This small museum will teach you about the original people of Lake Atitlan, their arts, crafts, and spirituality. It also has some early photos from this area and other information about the geology of Lake Atitlan. Even if you decide not to go inside the museum, leave this stop (and the Public Dock to Santiago) on the walking tour so the interactive Google map will walk you through some of our favorite neighborhoods of San Pedro Village.

Bar Sublime: This is where ex-pats, tourists, and some locals enjoy the view of Lake Atitlan as they listen to great music.

Sababa Restaurant: This is where we had a few of our favorite meals while in San Pedro Village.

Now that you have walked this map and seen most of the cool areas of this small village, you will be able to know how to appropriately allocate your time while in Lake San Pedro.

Favorite Restaurants in San Pedro Village

Here are our favorite restaurants in San Pedro Village, Lake Atitlan. Yes, you can click the Google Map or ==>here<== and go eat.

 

The map has the restaurants in geographical order but the restaurants are ordered by our favorite meals on top in the link below this YouTube video. After we take you on a short video tour of our favorite meals we will take you on a short tour and hike of nearby San Marcos Village.

Number 1: ‘Israel Breakfast’ at Sababa Restaurant: French toast 38 Q ($4.92) and Shakshuka 45 Q ($5.83) both large enough for two people.

Number 2: ‘Vegan Sushi Rolls’ at Kamui Japanese: We had Vegan Sushi Rolls on special 2 servings for the price of on at 45 Q ($5.83) plus one order of Kimchi for 15 Q ($1.94).

Number 3: ‘Indian Restaurant’ at Shanti Shanti: Qiang had Veggie Teriyaki and I had Veggie Curry, each dish cost 32 Q ($4.15).

Number 4: ‘Mexican Burrito’ at Pinocchio: We shared a nice Burrito for 35 Q ($4.53) which included coffee.

Number 6: Jakuu’ Restaurant: This local restaurant had a nice vegetable dish for 35 Q ($4.53) and a grilled chicken dish for only Qiang at 15 Q ($1.94).

Number 7: ‘Best Street Food’ at Tony’s Grill for 20 Q ($2.59). Located on the main street parallel to the lakeshore just up from the public dock.

In this report, we continue our tour of the villages around Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. Today, we start with San Juan Village-the chocolate/arts village of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala. The following video includes tours of San Juan, Santiago, and San Marcos Villages.

San Juan-The Chocolate/Arts Village of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

Every transfer between the villages of Lake Atitlan starts at the public dock. As you approach the public dock you will be asked in English, “What village do you want to go to?” You name the village, “San Juan.” They name the price and walk you to the correct boat. The number we heard most often is 25 Q ($3.24) per person. As soon as the Captain feels he has enough people, the boat leaves the dock–usually less than 10 minutes.

Upon arrival at San Juan, your eyes will be full of bright colors and arts. As usual, we are providing an interactive Google Map for you to click on your smartphone. Our maps always ==>start here<== at the Public Water Taxi Dock where you enter each village.

 

San Juan Public Water Taxi Dock: From the Public Water Taxi Dock, walk up the colorful street as the map guides you.

San Juan Mercado Arts and Crafts: Walk past the beautiful arts and crafts displayed. We will visit the arts and crafts later in the day when more shops are open.

Mirador Kiaq Aiswaan: We started with the viewpoint because it is cooler earlier in the day. But always remember to wear a hat and sunblock because you are in Central America and Lake Atitlan is a mile high in the sky.

Alma de Color: After enjoying the viewpoint we had an early lunch at Alma de Color. This is a community project where they teach and employ gifted people. We shared the Pasta Salad for 30 Q ($3.89) and we each had a lemonade 10 Q ($1.30).

Community Center: After lunch, the walk takes you by some of the most beautiful murals that teach the heroes of the Mayan people and other positive people in the world.

Licor Marron Chocolate Factory: Stop by the local chocolate factory and learn how chocolate is grown and made in Guatemala.

San Juan Laguna Catholic Church: I was unable to determine the age of this church. But to give you an idea of when the Spanish showed up in this area, the large church in the nearby village of Santiago was built in 1571 when the Spanish showed up.

San Juan Mercado Arts and Crafts: Now it is time to enjoy all of the art studios as you slowly stroll back to the Public Water Taxi Dock.

Next up is Santiago Village at Lake Atitlan.

Santiago–The Largest Village on Lake Atitlan Guatemala

In his travel book, Aldous Huxley wrote in his 1934 travel book, Beyond the Mexique Bay, “Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.”

Santiago Village is the largest village on the lake and consists mainly of Maya of the Tz’utujil ethnic group that has integrated Catholic faith with a Mayan spiritual entity called Maximón.

Santiago underwent considerable political unrest during the Guatemala civil war (1960 to 1996) when government soldiers are believed to have assassinated hundreds of local Maya and even an American priest, Stanley Rother, in 1981. Most of the turmoil happened in and around Santiago Village.

Another 1400 people were killed in a landslide caused by Hurricane Stan in 2015. Most of those killed remain under the landslide which is up to 5 meters deep. The area has since been dedicated as a cemetery.

A 7.5 earthquake that occurred in 1975 fractured the lake bed and caused subsurface drainage from the lake, allowing the water level to slowly drop two meters (6 ft 7 in) within one month.

Upon arrival in Santiago Village, after you move up the hill into the city, you will realize that you are in the middle of the hustle and bustle of a larger village where there are very few international tourists and ex-pats.

Once you move a few blocks past the souvenir sellers you will begin to notice that very few people are trying to sell you souvenirs. Once you enter the largest market on the lake, it will become clear to you that Santiago is primarily an agricultural economy. 

As usual, we are providing an interactive Google Map for you to click on your smartphone. Our maps always ==>start here<== at the Public Water Taxi Dock where you enter each village.

 

Public Water Taxi Dock: You will arrive at the Public Water Taxi Dock.

Santiago Mercado Municipal: One of the main reasons people go to visit Santiago Village is to see the largest local’s market on Lake Atitlan. So that is the first stop on the Santiago tour. You will see locally grown foods, fruits, vegetables, meats, and locally manufactured clothing. Walking down the alleys surrounding the market you will see open doorways where people are making the local Guatemalan fabrics. Make sure to wander down a few side streets along the market and see if you can find someone making local fabrics.

Parque Central de Santiago: This park is adjacent to the market. So while the park itself is a beautiful setting you will be surrounded by the crazy market all around you. Luckily there are food and drink sellers in the booths along the park so you can grab something to eat and enjoy watching the chaos all around you.

Saint James the Apostle Church: Since this was the most populated city when the Spanish arrived in 1547, Santiago is where they built the first Roman Catholic Church in this area. The Roman Catholic priest Stanley Rother along with many other unarmed civilians were killed during the Guatemalan civil war. Rother is venerated and the story is shared on the walls of the church.

Cafe Rafa: While you are in Santiago, make sure to try the delicious locally grown coffee that you will find in any of the coffee houses on the walk back to the public water taxi dock. Also, make sure to buy a big hat to keep the sun’s rays off your face.

Next, we head over to San Marcos Village.

San Marcos-The Hippie Spiritual Village of Lake Atitlan

If you are a vegetarian or vegan that loves to eat healthy organic food, do yoga, meditate, and eat psilocybin mushrooms from time to time, but are not a party animal in the general sense, then there is a good chance San Marcos will be your favorite Village on Lake Atitlan.

There are health food stores, whole multi-grain bread, multiple vegan restaurants, and spiritual retreats where people come to yoga, meditate, and contemplate the universal consciousness.

For San Marcos Village, go ahead and follow Qiang Hui of Hobo Ventures and let her show you the look and feel of the place rather than give you a formal tour.

Vegan Tacos: We had 3 Vegan Tacos for 20 Q ($2.59) that were super delicious.  Make sure to try all three salsas.  It is a taco stand near the fruits and vegetables stand across the street from here.  

Samsara’s Garden:  This was a super delicious vegan meal we had big enough to feed two people for 30 Q ($3.89) plus we shared a lemonade for another 10 Q ($1.30).  It has a beautiful garden and we recommend it highly.  

Next up, we head back to Panajachel Village for a few days before we head south to Antigua, Guatemala.

Panajachel-Expat Retirement Village of Lake Atitlan

Qiang and I have discussed it. If we could not afford to stay at Armand’s place and live the Eternal Vacation (link provided) we would probably stay at San Pedro Village in Lake Atitlan. But the truth is, we saw the most international retirees wandering around Panajachel (Pana).

All around the world, we have noticed that retired international ex-pats often like living near each other. There seems to be a comradery people like to develop with others, especially when they are arriving in a new country. The sorts of concerns you may have and the problems you will need to solve will be easier if you know someone that has gone through the same experience before you.

As international slow travelers, we are more typically in a new country for less time. So we are often still in the honeymoon period when it is time to head to a new city or new country. But if you are retiring somewhere, you may find some comfort in getting to know other retired ex-pats to help give you a soft landing in a new country. For Lake Atitlan, that place turns out to be Pana for most international retirees.

Once you feel like you have things under control, then you may find yourself wandering off to almost anywhere on the lake.

Here are a few things we really enjoyed when we stayed in Pana.

Hostel: Since we were only here for a few nights before transferring south to Antigua, we decide to rent a room with its own bathroom in a hostel. The Wifi at hostels is often better than hotels because the Internet is a must for most backpackers.

Best PIzza in Town: The pizza was 63 Q ($8.17) with 6 Q ($0.78) Jalapeno’s added on top and the cocktails were 20 Q ($2.59) each so the bill was 142 Q ($18.47) which included a tip of 10%.

Night Life Walk: After a beautiful pizza, stroll back slowly towards the lake as you enjoy the nightlife in Pana. Just stroll slowly along this path and stop for a drink or two whenever you hear music that floats your boat, where DJ or live music. They even have some traditional music along the way.

Favorite Meal in Pana: Qiang at a chicken avocado soup and I had a three-bean vegan chili. The dessert was also delicious. The bill including tip was 91 Q ($11.80). 

Tour Santa Catarina and San Antonio Villages: While you are in Pana, hire a tuk-tuk driver to take you on a tour of the villages of Santa Catarina and San Antonio. They will charge you about 200 Q ($26.00). The guy we used said we could take as long as we wanted in each village for a total of up to 5 hours. Since we were back to Pana within 3 hours, we asked him to stop by the Mercado Municipal in Pana and the San Francisco Catholic Church on the way home. That added an additional 20 minutes so we were well under the 5-hour maximum.

As usual, the Interactive Google Map below is clickable on your smartphone. To enjoy this tuk-tuk tour of nearby villages, ==>start here<== on your smartphone or click the below Google Map.

 

This is Dan of Vagabond Awake, the YouTube channel for VagabondBuddha.com. The world is your home, what time will you be home for dinner?